Aperol Spritzes and Multi Talent Chefs at Festivaletturatura

Well, my posse and I arrived safe and sound on Monday, close to noon, in Milan.

The flight was great. Here’s the view of the Dolomites from my window. We were met right off the plane by not one, but TWO lovely volunteers from Festivaletturatura: Andrea our driver, and the lovely and charming Aline, whose mom is Canadian, dad German. She grew up in Berlin but has called Italy home for 4 years, and speaks at least three languages fluently.

The two hour drive to Mantua turned into a four hour drive because of an accident on the highway, but this gave us a chance to chat and snooze! I also got my welcome kit, which included Mantuan traditional foods and a pair of Persol sunglasses. !! I felt like I was getting a swag bag at the Oscars.

After checking into our hotel (where they provided us with two rooms, one for me and one for the posse – how nice is that), and having a little down time, Aline picked us up again and walked us to the festival office. We met Marella there, who organized my visit. I was so happy to meet her – she is a super star! We then had our first Aperol spritz aperitif of the trip.

Then headed to dinner where another author, Nigerian American Okey Ndibe, met us. Very interesting man with lots of fascinating stories. I tried the Mantuan specialty of pumpkin-stuffed pasta. By that point it was time for bed. Slept for almost ten hours!

Yesterday morning we had a luxuriously late start. Before we left the hotel I was fascinated to see this version of a “roomba” mowing the grass in the courtyard. We had coffee and brioche at a nearby cafe, then bought the best nectarine I’ve had in my life at a little produce store. He also sold these gorgeous zucchini flowers.

My posse was in fine form. Then I did this thing that I suspect many authors do, unless they are John Grisham/Green/Franzen; I popped into the first bookstore I saw to see if my own books were there (yes, shameless). They were (probably thanks to the festival).We then went to the festival office to meet our guide for a tour of the Palazzo Ducale. Again, this is all organized by the festival – these people are really amazing, they are very generous and think of everything. Our new friend Okey Ndibe came with us.

Our guide, Floriana, was amazing.

She told us all about the history of the Gonzaga family, who ruled until the 1800’s. We saw a family portrait which included a most unfortunate looking child.Then Floriana told us this was actually a dwarf who was in their court, and she was a spy; she could hide in small spaces and listen in.

We then stopped by the enormous tent that houses the books for sale at the festival, and I signed a bunch of my books. It’s funny – this is the calm before the storm. The festival officially starts today (Wednesday). I’ve been told the entire town will change as of this afternoon – that we have seen the calm before the storm. There will be events happening all over the city, in outdoor venues and in many palazzos.

On the way back to the hotel we picked up our beautiful bikes, again courtesy of the festival for the week. I love my mint green beauty!I had time for a quick change before meeting my Italian publishers (yes. Yes, I love saying that), Pico and Paola from Il Castoro. They took me to a fabulous restaurant, Ochina Bianca. I had fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta (yes, it was as good as it sounds) and homemade pasta with donkey meat. Yup. I ett donkey. It’s a Mantuan specialty, and well, when in Mantua … It was very good, tasted like beef.

It was lovely chatting with Pico and Paola. Our waiter was also the owner, Roberto. He is a true individual. He talked to us a lot, and he and I spoke in French. He is very passionate about the food he serves, and you can tell. But he’s also a multi-talent. As we left he gave me a copy of his “riffleciones” or “reflections.” (I may have spelled the Italian word wrong).He then recited quite a few, which Pico translated … Things like  “A past love is like a ghost that haunts you … a presence in the air” (or close to that). Then, as we edged our way to the door (we were the last guests), he pointed to an old newspaper article, with a photo of his younger self, which seemed to suggest he had designed dresses for Valentino. !! I think I have to go back and get more intel.

Now, this morning, my posse and I are going to ride our bikes around the man-made lakes. Then I have my first official event at 5:30. I’ll let you know how it goes – and also how the city has transformed.